I hate to necro an old thread but... just some notes, in case someone might still find this old question useful, the battery inside the keyfob is a CR2032, a pretty standard size, found in many motherboards, which is incidentally where I yanked a battery from to test this out. Can confirm that if one is quick, the battery can be replaced without losing information. I was able to re-add the key to the account and subsequently log in with it. This was an original Collector's Edition key dating from early access. Notes on opening - it is NOT made to come apart, nor will it likely go back together in a pretty fashion after opening. It goes without saying that the circuitry inside the keyfob is delicate and prone to damage if you are not careful opening it. It may be useful to use something like a Dremel or other tool to cut gradually into the plastic to open it more cleanly. The circuit board is attached to the top plastic piece (with the display and button) and not to the rear (with the serial number label). Once open, there are five small screws holding the circuit board in place. They need to be removed to lift the board out. Once out, only a tab on the outer side of the battery holds it in place, along with friction. Lift the tab and push from the opposite side of the battery but leave it in as far as possible so that you can very quickly pull it out, and immediately push the replacement battery back in. The screen may come out with the circuit board, but it may fall off subsequently. It is not soldered on. If it comes off, place it back into position on the top plastic before reinserting the circuit board and putting the screws back in. I did not notice any obvious components designed to detect intrusion. Obviously, this was not designed to have the battery be replaceable and not sure if such would technically be a breach of terms. With that said, consider this information presented for educational terms only. I neither discourage nor encourage anyone to do this, except to the extent they reside in a territory with good right-to-repair laws. Use at your own risk. Your mileage may vary.

Interestingly, my GTX 560 doesn't seem to care for the update that much. My performance on Alderaan dropped way down, or at least according to the FPS meter. Where before I was consistently getting in the 50-60 FPS area with everything on high, now I'm seeing mid-20's in a lot of places. Granted, it isn't as choppy as I'd expect (certainly doesn't look like 25 FPS) but still a curious development. I even decided to finally take the plunge and update my drivers (I had been running with no problems on 275) and that didn't make a lick of difference. Changing AA from High to Low took me back up to 60 but not really liking that as an alternative.

Regarding the operating system issue... since Windows XP they implemented activation, which links the computer you're installing the operating system on to the specific hardware. You are allowed to make certain changes to the system without invalidating your "Genuine" status, however, the motherboard and processor, considered by Microsoft to be the heart of the system, generally cannot be changed in one fell swoop, as this constitutes (by Microsoft's definition) a new computer. OEM versions of Windows are bound to that system and mobo/cpu for life, that's it. Retail versions tend to have more leeway. Now, as regards CPU upgrades for the OP's specific system, the best thing I can recommend is to look up the supported CPU list on your motherboard manufacturer's website. If you've got an LGA775 board, which is itself a bit dated, I would NOT buy a new processor. Look in the supported CPU list, find a few high-end processors, write down their product codes. Then check eBay for used processors. While you need to do your research, a decent used CPU is fairly easy to locate on eBay.

Honestly, your mileage is going to vary, given the wildly different performance scenarios people on the forums have given. I myself am only getting about 60 FPS out and about in Coruscant and so forth. My system was built about 4 months ago, with an i5-2500K, oc'd to 4.5 GHz, 8 GB of RAM, and an nVidia 460GTX-based card. The FPS goes up to around 80 on my ship, can drop as low as the upper 40's at times. That being said, there are some used processors available on eBay for not a lot of cash. If you're looking at swapping anything out without replacing the motherboard, I'd look into a processor that's under $50 from eBay. Just make sure, whatever you get, is listed and fits the criteria on your motherboard's CPU compatibility list: http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_775/P5W_DH_Deluxe/#CPUS Memory should be fine with 4GB.

For an accurate response, you really should post your motherboard model information including revision. Both are usually printed somewhere on the motherboard if you don't have the information handy. Video card looks absolutely fine to me, memory is adequate. Hard drive should be fine as well.

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Good point, but, generally speaking, it's good to avoid flashing the BIOS unless there is no other plausible cause of the problem. A bad flash can kill a motherboard instantly. I know a lot of Gigabyte's boards have dual-BIOS to protect against that, but still, I'd suggest it only as a last resort. Just after reinstalling the OS (but not due to changing the video card).

I'm guessing from your description that it's the GV-N570OC-13I that's listed on Newegg... http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125384 If that's the case, then you should have two separate power connectors on the card. If you hold the card such that the fans are facing you and the video output connectors (DVI, HDMI, etc.) are to the left, the power connectors should be at the top, right of the circuit board, just past the silver heat pipe. With the card installed and the side panel removed, the connectors should be toward the middle of the computer and pointing toward you. These two connectors need to be plugged into either two power cables from the power supply directly, or using the adapters that came with the card, connected to a total of what looks to be four old-school molex 4-pin power connectors (pre-SATA hard drive or CD-ROM). If you haven't got anything plugged into those connectors on the video card, there's probably half your problem. If your current PSU has the two power cables to fit (each should be 6 pins) you can try them. If you have those specific power cables but have the adapter cables that came with the card, you may be able to give it a try with your current power supply if you have enough molex connectors.

A couple items. My system has a 650W Corsair power supply, one nVidia 560 GTX-based video card, 8GB (2x 4GB) Ballistix RAM by Crucial, and a i5-2500K overclocked to 4.5GHz on air cooling, running Win7 Pro x64. It's not a pure gamer's dream system, but it runs pretty decently, and has never once rebooted unexpectedly. It has only crashed to desktop twice since the second to last weekend beta. I realize your card is a little bit higher up, but I just wanted to throw my system specs out there as something near to a baseline. First, when your computer rebooted, there may have been a blue screen that your monitor was not quick enough to display. Sorry if this has already been addressed, but it's the IT guy in me trying to help. Take it at face value. If you haven't already, make sure the option to automatically restart after system failure is turned off. Windows XP: go into the Control Panel > System > Advanced tab Windows Vista/7: go into the Control Panel > System and Security > System > click on Advanced system settings in the left column In the Startup and Recovery section, click the Settings... button. In the System failure section, remove (if present) the checkmark for Automatically restart. This will, in the case of a blue screen, allow you to easily record the Stop Error code which then helps trace down problems that can cause a blue screen. Not saying that you are experiencing a blue screen, just that it's possible and good diagnostic practice. Second, to get to the Event Viewer as was previously suggested, it is sometimes available in the Administrative Tools program group (itself sometimes located in the Accessories program group). You can alternatively access it by typing in either the Run... box or the search box built into the Vista and 7 Start Menu: eventvwr.msc and pressing Enter. The event viewer is useful for tracking down things like blue screens. There is a folder tree to the left which represents the different logs available to the Event Viewer. The one you are interested in primarily is the System log within the Windows Logs group. If you know approximately what time the restart happened, you can go directly there and see if there is any mention of a blue screen. Blue screens entries are represented in the Event Viewer as having a Source of "bugcheck" so you may want to click on the Source column heading to sort the log in alphabetical order of Source. Alternatively, with Windows Vista and 7, you can click Filter Current Log... in the column to the right, but that's probably more advanced than you need to get right now. If someone has a major brand computer (i.e., HP, Compaq, Dell) they may be able to upgrade their power supply quite easily. From the card you've installed, you've basically demonstrated that you have at least a mini- or mid-tower system with most likely a micro-ATX form-factor motherboard or a full ATX form-factor motherboard. That suggests you have a standard-sized ATX form-factor power supply. Any 600W+, modern, name-brand power supply should be compatible with your hardware and not cause real performance issues. Since you've just posted that your power supply is a 1000W Thermaltake, I'm going to draw the conclusion that this is not a power-related issue. It would be helpful to know the exact model and manufacturer of your video card. We know that it's an nVidia 570 GTX chipset, but more specifically the company that produced the actual unit. If it's not too much trouble, your full system specs wouldn't hurt.